Troubleshooting - Common Problems & Solutions
Phase 1-2: Introduce Lure & Build Speed
Problem: She Won’t Lie Down with the Lure
Solutions:
-
Make sure lure goes ALL THE WAY to the ground
- Not hovering above it
- Right on the surface she’s on (carpet, grass, tile)
-
Pull it slightly back toward her chest/under her
- Don’t just go straight down
- The L-shape motion (down, then back) is critical
-
Try when she’s already sitting
- Easier to down from a sit than from standing
- Build confidence this way
-
Use higher value treats
- What gets her excited?
- Use the good stuff for learning the behavior
-
Practice on a soft surface
- Carpet, grass, or yoga mat
- Some dogs don’t like hard floors (tile, concrete)
-
Be patient
- First attempts can take 30+ seconds
- Don’t rush her
- Let her figure it out
Problem: She Stands Up and Walks Around the Lure
Solutions:
-
Lure more slowly
- Don’t rush
- Give her time to process
-
Start with her in a sit
- Easier to prevent backing up from a sit
-
Practice with her back to a wall
- Can’t back up or walk around
- Limits her options
-
Make sure treat is on the ground, not hovering
- Right on the surface
- Not in the air
Phase 3-4: Fade Lure & Add Verbal Cue
Problem: She Gets Stuck in Phase 3 (Won’t Down with Empty Hand)
Solutions:
-
Go back to Phase 2 for 1-2 more days
- Build more reps with full lure
- Create stronger muscle memory
-
Make sure your empty-hand motion is EXACTLY the same as your lure motion
- Mirror image
- Same speed, same distance
- Record yourself to compare
-
Start with intermittent mixing
- Do 3 reps with treat in hand
- Do 1 rep with empty hand
- Back to 3 reps with treat
- Repeat cycle
-
Be patient
- This is the hardest phase
- Some dogs need 10-14 days here
- That’s completely normal
Problem: She Only Responds to Hand Signal, Ignores Verbal Cue
Solutions:
-
Make sure you’re saying “down” BEFORE the hand signal
- Not at the same time
- Not after
- Verbal first, then hand signal 0.5 seconds later
-
Increase the delay between verbal and hand signal
- Start with 0.5 seconds
- Gradually increase to 1-2 seconds
- This forces her to start responding to the word
-
Do more reps in Phase 4 before moving to Phase 5
- Don’t rush the pairing
- She needs 30+ reps of hearing “down” paired with hand signal
-
When testing verbal only, wait a full 3 seconds
- Before giving hand signal backup
- Give her time to process
Phase 5: Verbal Cue Only
Problem: She’s Not Responding to Verbal Cue Reliably
Solutions:
-
Make sure she got enough practice pairing the cues in Phase 4
- Go back to Phase 4 for another week if needed
- More reps = stronger association
-
Increase the value of rewards for verbal-only success
- When she does it on the word alone, jackpot
- Make it worth more than hand-signal tries
-
Make sure you’re waiting long enough
- Wait a full 3 seconds after saying “down”
- Before giving hand signal backup
-
Increase percentage of verbal-only trials more gradually
- Stick at 50% for a few extra days
- Don’t jump to 70% if she’s only at 50% success
Phase 6: Adding Duration
Problem: She Breaks Position Constantly
Solutions:
-
You’re progressing too fast
- Go back to shorter durations
- 2-4 seconds if she’s breaking at 5 seconds
-
Feed treats MORE often
- Every 3 seconds instead of 5-7
- Keeps her engaged and in position
-
Make sure you’re using “GOOD” not “YES”
- “YES” makes her want to get up
- “GOOD” tells her to keep staying
-
Check that you’re feeding treats IN position
- Between her paws, not making her move
- She should barely move to get the treat
-
Make sure the behavior itself is solid
- If she’s not responding reliably to “down,” duration will be hard
- Go back to Phase 5 if needed
Problem: She’s Anxious/Stressed During Duration Work
Signs of stress:
- Yawning, lip licking, whale eye
- Panting excessively
- Trying to leave position repeatedly
- Whining or barking
Solutions:
-
Shorten duration significantly
- Back to 5-10 seconds
- Way below where she’s comfortable
-
Increase treat frequency
- Feed every 3 seconds (or even more often)
- More frequent reward = less stress
-
Remove all distractions
- Quiet room
- Just you and her
- Calm environment
-
Practice in a place she’s very comfortable
- Her favorite room
- Familiar spot
- Safe feeling
-
Build confidence with easier exercises first
- Make sure the down position itself is comfortable
- Some dogs find holding down stressful (pain, anxiety, posture)
- Consult a trainer or vet if stress persists
Problem: She Anticipates the Release
What it looks like:
- She pops up at exactly 20 seconds every time (because that’s when you always release her)
- She starts shifting/preparing to get up before you release
Solutions:
-
Variable duration
- Sometimes 10 sec, sometimes 30 sec, sometimes 45 sec
- No predictable pattern
-
Don’t always go to max duration
- Mix short and long holds
- Keeps her guessing
-
Occasionally ask for very short durations mixed with long ones
- Just when she expects a long one
-
Release is random, unpredictable
- She has to wait for your cue
- Not clock-watching
Problem: She’ll Hold It For You But Not For Others
Solutions:
-
Have other people practice with her
- Start with you nearby
- Other person cues the behavior
-
Other person cues behavior, you stand close and support
- Gradually fade your presence
- She learns it applies to everyone
-
Use the same hand signal and cue word
- Consistency across people
-
She needs to learn “duration applies to everyone, not just dad”
- Takes more reps with multiple people
- But it will generalize
Phase 7: Distance & Distractions
Problem: She Breaks When You Step Away
Solutions:
-
You’re going too far too fast
- Go back to 1 step away for another week
- Build from there
-
Make sure you’re returning to reward her
- Don’t toss treats from far away
- Return and give her treats
- Builds confidence that you’re coming back
-
Increase treat value
- More exciting rewards = more motivation to stay
-
Start with her already in down
- Rather than cueing from standing
- One less variable
Problem: She Anticipates Your Return
What it looks like:
- She gets up right before you come back
- Has a predictable pattern
Solutions:
-
Vary the time you’re away
- Sometimes 5 sec, sometimes 15, sometimes 30
- No predictable pattern
-
Don’t always return from the same direction
- Sometimes come back left, sometimes right
- Mix it up
-
Don’t have a predictable routine
- Sometimes return immediately, sometimes wait longer
- Sometimes make noise, sometimes be quiet
Problem: She Can’t Handle Real-World Distractions
Solutions:
-
You’re in too challenging an environment
- Start in quieter locations
- Build up gradually
-
Start in quieter locations
- Your living room
- Backyard
- Quiet park
- Then gradually busier places
-
Gradually expose her to busier environments
- One step up at a time
- Don’t jump from quiet room to busy cafe
-
Keep sessions short in challenging locations
- 5-10 minutes max
- Don’t overwhelm her
-
Increase treat value
- Make it worth her while
- High-value treats for hard environments
Problem: She’s Stressed During Distance/Distraction Work
Signs: Panting, yawning, lip licking, whining
Solutions:
-
Reduce difficulty significantly
- Go back 2-3 levels
- Build from there
-
Increase treat frequency
- More rewards = more confidence
-
Practice in calmer environments
- Familiar, quiet spaces
- Build skills there first
-
Make sure the behavior itself is fully solid
- Can she do 60-second down with you right next to her?
- If not, don’t add distance/distractions yet
General Troubleshooting
She’s Regressing (Was Good, Now Not)
Possible causes:
-
You’ve progressed too fast
- Back up one phase
- Rebuild from there
-
Life circumstances changed
- Travel, new family member, moved homes
- Revert to practicing in familiar environment
-
She’s having a bad day
- Could be tired, distracted, or just off
- Try again tomorrow
-
Pain or discomfort
- Down is uncomfortable for some dogs
- Consult a vet
She’s Inconsistent (Sometimes Works, Sometimes Doesn’t)
Solutions:
-
Inconsistency = not solid yet
- Not ready to progress
- Do more reps at current level
-
Increase reps
- 20-30+ reps per day
- Build more repetitions
-
Simplify the context
- Remove any extra challenges
- Just the behavior you’re working on
-
Only progress when she’s 8-9/10 successful
- Don’t move forward too early
You’re Not Sure Which Phase to Go Back To
Rule of thumb:
Go back to the last phase where she was consistently successful 8-9/10 times, then rebuild from there.
When to Seek Help
Consider working with a professional trainer if:
- She’s showing signs of fear or anxiety during training
- You’re stuck for more than 2 weeks at a phase
- The behavior is regressing significantly
- You’re frustrated or unsure about what to do next
- There’s any pain or physical discomfort involved
Related Pages
- Phase 1-2: Introduce Lure & Build Speed
- Phase 3-4: Fade Lure & Add Verbal
- Phase 5: Verbal Cue Only
- Phase 6: Add Duration
- Phase 7: Distance & Distractions